gallery of
~Imagination~
Framing
Framing Pastels Without Mats
Framing a pastel painting without a mat is becoming more popular, but it isn't necessarily less expensive. The frames that look the best are wider (2 3/4" - 3" or more, like
you would see on an oil painting) to allow some "breathing room" around the artwork.
In fact, judges have questioned why my "oils" were framed behind glass! Frames that are too narrow without a mat make the work look "squeezed in" to the frame - as though the artist didn't really have much appreciation for their work and used just any old frame available.
Frames can be made of reflective gold leaf or wood that has a "furniture"
finish to carry the eye into and out of the painting. These are generally the more expensive frames.
If you are still with me here, this is a method of
framing without mats. There is a product
I use that is available through frame shops known as a "channel spacer". This is a black, smoke color,
or clear length of acrylic with one adhesive surface that is affixed to the inside of the frame between the glass and artwork. It
is sized 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick so the glass is held away from the artwork, and any loose dust will fall onto that surface. If you use the smoke colored one, it doesn't really show much.
You will need to secure large artwork to a more solid
backing. If you use
museum board or pastel board, you won't have to do this. I love framing these
boards because of the rigidity! Other less solid surfaces may be mounted on foam core or museum mount board prior to working on them with
acid free tape or a spray adhesive. However, the best assurance of having it stay on the firmer surface is to take it to your framer, and
have them mount it using professional products and methods (vacuum mounting). If you've already painted the
surface, you may hinge-mount it to a solid surface (like foam core or museum mount). Just be certain it is secured on all edges - but this is not the most secure method. Your framer should be able to vacuum mount even a finished painting.
You may have to "correct" some smearing, but it shouldn't be great. I understand that some people have used adhesive backed foam core, but I don't know if that product is archival. If that is a concern of yours, ask the manufacturer regarding the safety of the product for fine artwork.
Method:
Clean glass thoroughly and place in frame.
Cut channel spacers the measurement of the inside of
the frame. Pull off the protective
paper and secure them to the inside of the frame along the
channel as close to the glass as possible.
Check to see that all is clean, and fits properly.
Place another backing board behind
the mounted artwork.
With Elmer's glue or double-stick
tape, secure a piece of backing paper to the back of the frame
to keep dust and bugs out of the framed work.
Attach a flat hanger (mandatory
by some galleries!) and strong wire for hanging. Flat
hangers are stronger than screw eyes and travel better in a packing box. (And
the artwork will hang closer to the wall.)
Happy Framing!
Caution: Framing a pastel can be hazardous to the health and trying to the soul! When I first began framing my own work, many were the times I finished, only to find a fleck of pastel on the glass! What to do? Let me think: Eat some chocolate... then DO IT OVER!! Grrrrr!!!!!
Tip: Constantly - and carefully - check from the front during the entire framing process!
Remember: In your patience possess ye your soul! (...or something like that!*L*)
Background Music: Something About Jenny
Sequence developed by Jim Stark
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